hello, everyone! this is lomi, and today we'relooking at the next step in my customization project, which is finishing rune's legs andadjusting the shape of the ball joint on the hands. there's actually not too much to do here,so it'll be quick. when i started the project a few years ago, i worked out a really goodfit on knee joint, so this is all about finishing work to polish up what i did back then.
3d printed ball jointed doll, since it was my first mod project, i didn'tdo the best finishing work because i didn't know how. turns out it isn't hard, it justtakes a lot of patience. so after i made sure everything still fit the way i wanted, itwas time to fill in the gaps, scratches and dents on the epoxy clay. for this i'm usingbondo glazing and spot putty. it smells awful,
so working outside is important. when doingcustomization, i wear my respirator when using any materials that have a smell at all. iget headaches easily from odors, so it's safest, and what's most comfortable for me. this putty usually comes out separated and it needs to be stirred before using. it kind of reminds me of ketchup. applying the putty is pretty simple. sinceit's thin, all you have to do is rub it onto the parts wherever you've done modificationwork. i always apply it in a bigger area than what i think i need. better to sand it alloff than miss a few spots. i rub the putty into the dips and dents with a popsicle stick,then lay them on pieces of scrap wood to dry. the putty is permanent since it's meant forautomotive repair, so if you use it, make
sure you don't get it on anything. sandingis the only way to get it off. one of the hands has a few deeper pits, soi use a toothpick to poke putty all the way down into these, just to make sure they'recompletely full. then i cover the whole re-shaped ball joint with putty. it takes about threehours to dry, then we can go right to the next step, which is sanding. i prefer to do wet sanding because it controlsthe dust, which keeps my respirator from clogging up as fast. the putty releases fumes as yousand it, but they aren't as bad as when it's wet, so having the vent on and the windowsopen is enough to get rid of the fumes. the dust means it's still important to use a respirator. for this i use 220 and 600 gritwet-or-dry sandpaper. 220 for removing the
extra putty, and 600 for getting a reallysmooth finish after it's done. i do a rough job of sanding the extra putty, then sandin a circular motion with the 600 grit paper to remove any visible sanding marks. you cansee the water changing colors as i sand. that's all the dust that gets trapped in the water. after the putty is smooth, there's one lastthing to do for his knees. using my dremel, i carve out the top of the leg's elastic channel,making it big enough to fit an aluminum pipe inside. it takes a few tries to get it justthe right size. i leave a ledge inside for the pipe to sit on, so it won't fall intohis lower leg. this is what will help him stand, since i can't use the locking mechanismfrom his human legs. it braces against the
inside of the thigh to hold him upright andkeep the knees from collapsing. i tried a steel rod first, but using that, i couldn'tmove his legs. with the pipe, i can actually run the elastic through the middle, and slidethe pipe up into the thigh piece whenever i want him to sit or kneel. i'll need to suedehis knees to be sure he's stable, but that'll be easy to do after painting. for now, we can mark the leg mods off as done!
i'll string him and share photos of him standingafter he's painted. and if you're just joining me, you can seethe previous steps, like making elbow pieces and creating wigs, in my other videos.
that's all for today. thanks for watching!
